EXPEDITION
K2
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Expedition news
Timeline 1954
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PORTFOLIO
MARCH
9 January 1953, Professor Ardito Desio applies to the Pakistan government for permission to make a preliminary journey in the same year
24 April 1953: At the General Assembly of the CAI in Parma, Carlo Chersi, the president of the Academic Alpine Club, also responsible for the Commission that plans and organises non-European initiatives, asks Desio if he is prepared to lead an expedition to K2. On the whole the professor agrees.
18 August 1953, Ardito Desio leaves with Riccardo Cassin to explore Karakorum. Permission was granted a month before, and the expedition is financed by the CNR. In Rawalpindi the two explorers meet Charles Houston and his companions, who have just returned from an attempt to climb K2.
25 September 1953, Desio and Cassin reach the Concordia cirque and finally see K2. On the following days, owing to the bad weather, they have to limit their reconnaissance plans and go only to the first camp of the American expedition. They return to Italy on 18 October andDesio is told permission has arrived to climb K2 in 1954.
7 November 1953, The Central Council of the CAI nominates an executive commission for K2. It is agreed the expedition will be organised by the Alpine Club and by the National Research Council and the head of the Pakistan event will be Ardito Desio, with the collaboration of Riccardo Cassin "as leader of the mountaineering group".
12 November 1953, Desio makes it clear the Central Commission of CAI should not appoint anyone else besides the head of the expedition. Cassin resigns his alpine leadership.
15 December 1953, Desio examines the funds. The total estimate of the expenses, including the scientific part, is approximately 100 million It. lire. The alpinists proposed for the expedition are called for the first medical examination. Desio informs the Commission of the results of this examination on 29 December. Among the first to be excluded is, surprisingly, Cassin.
9 January 1954, Cassin resigns from the Commission.
18-27 January and 16-26 February 1954, Training and selection camps held on the Rosa Plateau and Mount Rosa. At the end of the selection tests, the mountaineering team is composed of. Erich Abram, born in 1922; Ugo Angelino, born in 1923; Waiter Bonatti, born in 1930;AchilleCompagnoni, 1914; Cirillo Floreanini, 1924; Pino Gallotti, 1918; Lino Lacedelli, 1925; Guido Pagani, alpinist and doctor, 1917; Mario Pochoz, 1918; Gino Soldà, 1907; Sergio Viotto, 1928. Head of expedition: Ardito Desio, born in Palmanova, Friuli in 1897.
March 1954, The government's contribution, that has to come through the CNR, seems destined to be delayed several months. The Central Council of the CAI, assumes all moral and financial responsibility for the expedition and promises to intervene in the transitory financial operations
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NEWS
03-08-2004
The Scoiattoli return home
31-07-2004
Preparations are underway to leave K2 BC
30-07-2004
Brief comments, times and photos about the 6 Scoiattoli who reached he summit of K2
30-07-2004
Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini at Base Camp!
29-07-2004
Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini at Camp 2
WEATHER
27-07-2004
A weak ridge is situated over Afghanistan. It may at times affect the K2-area during the first days giving only risk of occasional showers. Then it seems to become more unsettled with frequent showers due to lows over Kashmir and Tibet.

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