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Expedition news
Timeline 1954
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PORTFOLIO
NOVEMBER
30-06-1954
30 June,
Rey and Compagnoni climb the Bill House Chimney and reach the site of camp V, at 6,650 metres. Compagnoni, Abram and Gallotti climb to pitch a tent there on 14 July.
02-07-2004
The Scoiattoli at Camp 2 (6600m)
On 01/07 the Scoiattoli reached Camp 2 (6600m). After sleeping at Camp 1 (6000m) Mario Lacedelli, Renato Sottsass, Luciano Zardini and Marco Sala climbed past the famous House's Chimney and reached Camp 2 at 6600m. Now, Friday 2/07, the Scoiattoli are all at Base Camp Campo Base and the weather, as forecast, has worsened.

Thursday 1 July
After spending the first night at Camp 1 (6000 m), the group split into two. One part returned to Base Camp, while four members, Mario Lacedelli, Renato Sottsass, Luciano Zardini and Marco Sala, reached Camp 2 at 6600 m. In doing so they climbed past the famous House's Chminey. They rested for a couple of hours at Camp 2, before abseiling back down the Spur. At Base Camp their faces were clearly strained due to the fatigue of being at altitude.

Friday 2 July
As forecast the weather worsened and the entire expedition recuperated sleep and energy. We're anxiously awaiting Lino's arrival, at the moment we haven't managed to contact him.

Hello to all
Giuseppe Ghedina

Photo 1: 30 June 2004: Mario Lacedelli, Renato Sottsass and Stefano Dibona at Camp 1, the Baltoro glacier can be seen in the background.
Photo 2 (click image): 1 July 2004 Mario Lacedelli leaving Camp 1 for Camp 2 (ph Renato Sottsass)

House's Chimney 6600m
The first true obstacle, climbed by the American Bill House in 1938. Nowadays it is scaled with the help of in-situ ladders and fixed ropes.




Abruzzi Spur: the route
Ascent portfolio by Giuseppe Ghedina



NEWS
03-08-2004
The Scoiattoli return home
31-07-2004
Preparations are underway to leave K2 BC
30-07-2004
Brief comments, times and photos about the 6 Scoiattoli who reached he summit of K2
30-07-2004
Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini at Base Camp!
29-07-2004
Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini at Camp 2
WEATHER
27-07-2004
A weak ridge is situated over Afghanistan. It may at times affect the K2-area during the first days giving only risk of occasional showers. Then it seems to become more unsettled with frequent showers due to lows over Kashmir and Tibet.

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