On 01/07 the Scoiattoli reached Camp 2 (6600m). After sleeping at Camp 1 (6000m) Mario Lacedelli, Renato Sottsass, Luciano Zardini and Marco Sala climbed past the famous House's Chimney and reached Camp 2 at 6600m. Now, Friday 2/07, the Scoiattoli are all at Base Camp Campo Base and the weather, as forecast, has worsened.
With Renzo Benedetti between Camp 1 and Camp 2
The Scoiattoli, after a few enforced rest days due to bad weather, are getting ready for the higher camps. Once again they will climb past ABC, Camp 1 and Camp 2 to push further upwards and establish Camp 3.
Saturday 3 July and Sunday 4 July, between C1 (6000m) and C2 (6600m) with Renzo Benedetti:
I climb quickly up to Camp 1, the weather changes, it's windy higher up. I'm unsure whether to continue on to Camp 2, so I wait for Marco Anghileri, Stefano Dibona, Marco Da Pozzo and Davide Alberti. They prefer to rest and stop at C1, so I decide to stay with them. We're all fine and spend the night without problems.
The next day the weather isn't great but nevertheless we get ready to climb up to C2. I head off at 7.00am and climb swiftly up the gullies I ascended a few days previously: I like this section of the climb which, unlike the first uniform stretch between ABC and C1, is varied. There are iced gullies and some mixed terrain, and after having climbed past a small rock face (3-4) I reach an incredible glacial amphitheater, closed up high by a rocky outcrop. The weather gets worse and small avalanches slide down towards the center of the amphitheater, and the wind increases. I'm alone, and my immediate problem is climbing the rocky gully, the famous House's Chimney which, although not technically difficult (4+), was a big question mark for me. 15 days prior to departure I broke my left collar bone in a stupid and unlucky car accident.
I'm now in the center of the Chimney. I like it and, despite the snow that cascades onto me, manage to exit easily. At the top a storm welcomes me in full force and K2 begins to show her true colours. I stop for a moment, astounded, I need to climb another 50m height difference but continue to sink into the deep snow with my heavy rucksack (roughly 13 kg). I keep slipping, the wind makes going tough. After 25 minutes I climb past the final step section and reach C2, located beneath the rocky spur.
I open the tent, get inside and wait for my companions, with whom I'll decide weather to descend due to the bad weather, or spend the night to acclimatise. Only Marco Anghileri and Marco Da Pozzo reach Camp 2, the others turned back before House's Chimney, and so we spend the night at Camp 2. The storm howls incessantly throughout the night and we don't manage to sleep... Towards 6.00 am we prepare ourselves for the descent , and reach BC in time for lunch. We heave a sigh of relief after 2 days of real fatigue.
A weak ridge is situated over Afghanistan. It may at times affect the K2-area during the first days giving only risk of occasional showers. Then it seems to become more unsettled with frequent showers due to lows over Kashmir and Tibet.