Expedition news
Timeline 1954
Weather forecast
16 July,
Abram and Gallotti prepare the route to the place where camp VI will be established in the following days at 7,300 metres. During the next few days the rope-teams Compagnoni-Rey and Lacedelli-Bonatti prepare the route to the 'Shoulder' of K2.They reach the place where camp VII will be set up, at 7,500 metres. In the following days camp VI is moved 100 metres uphill for safety reasons.
Broad Peak summit for Mario Dibona! The Scoiattoli reach C3 on K2!
The ascent is proceeding according to plan: Mario Dibona has reached the summit of Broad Peak, his 4th 8000m peak. In the meantime, Mario Lacedelli, Renato Sottsas and Marco Sala continue to climb the Abruzzi Spur and have reached Camp 3 (7350m).

Thursday 8 July - Base Camp K2
Many of you have probably heard the news directly via Radio Cortina from Stefano Dibona: Mario Dibona has reached the summit of Broad Peak! We're waiting for him here, at K2 Base Camp, to celebrate and send you his thoughts and the first summit photos

In the meantime, things have progressed here at K2: Stefano Dibona and Luciano Zardini have returned to BC, the latter with some "normal" stomach problems. Mario Lacedelli, Renato Sottsas and Marco Sala reached Camp 3 today and are returning to BC, with photos from Renato. But that's not all, because Marco Anghileri, true to name, left BC a few minutes ago alone, heading for Camp 1 tonight and then, tomorrow, to climb as high as possible. We're in full acclimatisation, and the raids up at altitude continue.

Speak to you soon, with further details and photos

Giuseppe Ghedina

Photo: Mario Dibona climbing up to Camp 1, Broad Peak. (ph arch. M. Dibona)

Broad Peak 8047m. Position: Himalaya, Karakorum -on the border between Pakistan and Cina, close to K2. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world, and was first ascended by the Austrians H. Buhl, K. Diemberger, M. Schmuck and F. Wintersteller on 7 June 1957.

Portfolio "Ascent"

 Mario Dibona

The Scoiattoli return home
Preparations are underway to leave K2 BC
Brief comments, times and photos about the 6 Scoiattoli who reached he summit of K2
Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini at Base Camp!
Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini at Camp 2
A weak ridge is situated over Afghanistan. It may at times affect the K2-area during the first days giving only risk of occasional showers. Then it seems to become more unsettled with frequent showers due to lows over Kashmir and Tibet.

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