Mario Dibona send sthe following Broad Peak report from K2 Base Camp
Saturday 10 July 2004 -BC K2
the weather is variable today, and useful for a rest day. No one is moving at altitude. The trekkers, after having reacher K2 BC, have now begun the return back. Mario Dibona arrived late this morning after his fourth 8000m peak: he was welcomed enthusiastically by all of us. Now, acclimatised, he'll rest for a couple of days before starting the next great effort...
Bye to all
Brief report of the Scoiattolo Mario "Moro" Dibona's fourth 8000m peak. After having established C2 we waited for a small, 4 day weather window for the summit attempt. In the morning on 6 July we left C2 at 6200m, unfortunately many members felt unwell and turned back. Two other mountaineers who reached C2 had to descend immediately as they felt unwell, and so there were only three of us: Ricki and Andy (2 members of the Swiss expedition) and myself.
The next day we departed to establish C3 at 7200m: breaking trail in 70 cm deep fresh snow was extremely hard work. We left the next morning on July 8 at 4.00 am for the summit. The snow was immediately extremely deep and once again we had to break trail. In some sections there was more than 1 m of deep snow.
We reached a col and then continued on to the crest, at times the going was not easy, to reach some small summits that look like the top, but the true summit is still distant: the summit of Broad Peak isn't a nice summit, such as the small and pointed Everest summit, but a long ridge characterised by three summits: the first, often called "summit", at roughly 8000-8016m (on BP there are often these 16m height difference) where mountaineers normally stop. Then there's the entire crest with a snowfield - plateau on one side, and on the east an immense drop. On this crest there's the "Rocky summit", or foresummt at 8030m, and a true summit at 8047m.
Continuing along the crest the weather got worse and the wind increased and the clouds came in. After the first summit we continued on for 1.5 hours to the second summit, after which the terrain dropped and the thick fog impeded us from seeing anything at all. At this point Ricki (the expedition leader) announced the summit. After a few photos and a short video we immediately descended. The return to C3 was extremely long, but the return to BC in severe whiteout conditions, with fog and wind, was much harder.
Mario Dibona "Moro
Photo: Mario Dibona "Moro" on Broad Peak (autoscatto).
Photo portfolio (click portfolio): C3 on Broad Peak, at 7200m (ph Mario Dibona); group photos of trekkers at K2 BC (ph Giuseppe Ghedina).
A weak ridge is situated over Afghanistan. It may at times affect the K2-area during the first days giving only risk of occasional showers. Then it seems to become more unsettled with frequent showers due to lows over Kashmir and Tibet.