Abram and Gallotti prepare the route to the place where camp VI will be established in the following days at 7,300 metres. During the next few days the rope-teams Compagnoni-Rey and Lacedelli-Bonatti prepare the route to the 'Shoulder' of K2.They reach the place where camp VII will be set up, at 7,500 metres. In the following days camp VI is moved 100 metres uphill for safety reasons.
Movement at altitude...
Acclimatisation continues on K2: from Sunday to Tuesday Renzo Benedetti, Marco Anghileri and Marco Da Pozzo reached Camp 3 and spent the night there, and moved on towards the shoulder of K2. All three are now in BC. Lino Lacedelli has arrived too, it's a great say! More news soon.
Sunday 11 July At 4.00 am on Sunday Renzo Benedetti, Marco Anghileri and Marco Da Pozzo left BC and reached Camp 2 at 12:30. The spend the night there. the weather is OK.
Monday 12 July Weather conditions deteriorate... despite this the three contiinue on to C3. the ascent is demanding, both because of the technical difficulties and the prevailing weather conditions. At 14.30 they reach Camp 3 and, for the first time, three members of the expedition spend the night at 7300m, enabling them to acclimatise well for the next climb up towards the summit.
Tuesday 13 July the weather is fine at altitude and the wind weak. After taking a few photos the three make the most of conditions to continue along the shoulder towards C4. After a couple of hours they decide to retreat. The descent to BC is long and tiring, and the three require 7 hours to descend 2500m. the three days at altitude have obviously left their mark, but the next couple of days will be spent resting and recuperating, before setting off to the summit once more. This cold be the first attempt proper for the summit.
Speak to you soon, we'll write with more news and photos of Lino Lacedelli. Giuseppe Ghedina
Photo: Panorama from Camp 3: from left G1, G2, G3 , G4, Broad Peak and in the background (far right) Chogolisa. Photo 2 (click photo): Renzo Benedetti climbing House's Chimney. ph Marco Da Pozzo
A weak ridge is situated over Afghanistan. It may at times affect the K2-area during the first days giving only risk of occasional showers. Then it seems to become more unsettled with frequent showers due to lows over Kashmir and Tibet.