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Expedition news
Timeline 1954
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PORTFOLIO
MARCH
31-07-1954
31 July,
After a terrible night, Bonatti and Mahdi manage to return to camp VIII; the Hunza's feet and hands are seriously frostbitten. Lacedelli and Compagnoni descend to get the oxygen bottles and then climb to the summit. They reach the top of K2, at 8,611 metres, at 6.00pm. They arrive back at camp VIII at 11.00 pm.
28-07-2004
Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini summit!
At 9.45 local time on 28 July 2004, Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini reached the summit of K2, 8611m. They reached the top together with the Swiss Mountain Guide Michel Andre Wirdt, a Sherpa and and the Pakistani high altitude porter Mohamed Sanap Akam.

Base Camp K2 - Wednesday 28 July 2004 - telephone call via satellite with Giuseppe Ghedina
Mario and Luciano are on the summit! it's the most beautiful day on K2, there's not a breath of air and just now, at 9.45 local time, Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini reached the summit! A dream! A dream for all of us, and for Mario in particular: Lino will be proud of his nephew! The two Scoiattoli left Camp 4 at around midnight on 27/07/04. They reached the summit together with a Sherpa and Mohamed Sanap Akam. Swiss Mountain Guide Michel Andre Wirdt reached the top before them.

Mario and Luciano will begin their descent shortly. This will be coordinated by expedition leader Kari Kobler, currently at Camp 4 after having abandoned his summit bid last night.

In the meantime, yesterday's summiters Mario Dibona, Renato Sottsass, Marco Da Pozzo and Renzo Benedetti are at Camp 2 at the moment and will continue descending. Stefano Dibona and the other Scoiattoli are at ABC waiting for them.

Photo: K2 by day (ph Giuseppe Ghedina)


The Abruzzi Spur route
Portfolio "Trekking Approach"
Portfolio "Ascent"

 Mario Lacedelli
 Luciano Zardini

NEWS
03-08-2004
The Scoiattoli return home
31-07-2004
Preparations are underway to leave K2 BC
30-07-2004
Brief comments, times and photos about the 6 Scoiattoli who reached he summit of K2
30-07-2004
Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini at Base Camp!
29-07-2004
Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini at Camp 2
WEATHER
27-07-2004
A weak ridge is situated over Afghanistan. It may at times affect the K2-area during the first days giving only risk of occasional showers. Then it seems to become more unsettled with frequent showers due to lows over Kashmir and Tibet.

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